A Dash of Laughter, A Pinch of Joy: Cooking with a Friend

July 14th, 2008

I love the rituals and sharing that go into working with a cooking buddy. On the Sunday that my friend Julie came over to make gingerbread with me, I was deep into tradition long before she walked in the door. That morning, I reached for my recipe folder marked ‘family.’ That’s where I keep mom’s gingerbread recipe from all those years ago. What I found, scribbled on a yellowed index card, was a kind of culinary Morse code. If I hadn’t had the visual and muscle memory of making the recipe with ma, I would have trouble recreating this dish. In these cases, the story telling I share with my cooking buddy acts as a mental stretching exercise, stimulating my recall of how the gingerbread should look and smell and what steps I need to take with my ingredients to get there.

As it all comes together, I hear in my voice, and Julie’s, that same excitement shared by mother, and, in Julie’s case, her great aunt, over their gingerbread creations. Their joyful connection to the food is now ours, as if the alchemy of the creation is a greater force than all the years that stand between us and them. We become the keepers of their culinary lore and we recognize the gift for what it is. My best culinary learning experiences came from watching other cooks, young and old.

One of my most memorable culinary lessons was learning to make pasta the genuine Italian way, by having it hurled out a second-story window by a bona fide Calibrian signora yelling in Italian that it was forty seconds past al dente. In an operatic sort of way, I learned an important lesson: Never walk away from the pasta pot. Other culinary pointers have come to me in a more gentle fashion, like having the same Signora’s warm hands over mind, helping me imprint the rhythm and feeling of kneading pasta dough.

My cooking buddies inspire me to cook. They spark my creativity in the kitchen, with the creation of our own culinary lore. The more I cook with others, the more stories we create. These are the secret ingredients that add a deep sense of nourishment for those we share our culinary creations with around the table. And, oh yes, the gingerbread Julie and I made that day was to die for.

Wondering how to find a cooking buddy? Send your questions to Rebecca in the comments section below.

“Friendship is born at that moment when one person says to another: “What! You, too? Thought I was the only one.”
–C.S. Lewis, British Writer and Scholar

Mother Love: My First Friend in the Kitchen

July 10th, 2008

My first cooking buddy was my mother. I would precariously perch myself on our yellow Formica kitchen counter, watching mom cook while I performed my job: Official Soup Stirrer and Taster of the Katz household. At the time I could never figure out what herbs and spices she tossed into that big, orange Le Cresuet pot, but those smells became permanently etched on my brain.

My love of making soups and stews clearly comes from the magic show my mother put on for me in our kitchen. Cooking with someone gives me a glimpse into their culinary soul (or, for that matter, their grandmother’s). A few days ago I mentioned one of my cooking buddies, Julie. In her kitchen we share stories of our memories surrounding food and relationships. Many of our finest culinary efforts had their genesis watching our friends and family cook, for the handing down of recipes is strengthened and reinforced by the very nature of its show-and-tell manner.

And not just recipes; techniques often come with a legacy as well. Julie’s grandmother always peeled her apples with a peeler, because she had a run-in with a knife. My Nana peeled with a knife, and I continue the tradition. Cooking is visual storytelling at its best. It’s a craft learned by observing nuance: a pinch of this, a dash of that. My mother’s gingerbread is an example. She learned the recipe by observing her great aunt, and had the good sense to scribble down notes on an index card. Later, Ma explained her gingerbread experience to me while I observed.

“Now watch this carefully,” mom told me, while the Kitchen-Aide mixer groaned as the butter and sugar became lighter and lighter.” “See this light lemon color, this is when we add the egg.” This is how I learned to make gingerbread. Next up, I’ll tell you what happened to the gingerbread when Julie and I joined forces in the kitchen.

Who first turned you on to cooking? Share your stories in the comments below

“What is a friend? A single soul dwelling in two bodies.”
–Aristotle

Your New BFF–Finding a Cooking Buddy (pt. 2)

July 7th, 2008

I have many cooking buddies who enrich my life. A cooking buddy is someone who is not afraid to get behind the stove and cook the exotic and often unknown. Actually, the best cooking buddies sometimes start off full of fear and trepidation. However, with surprisingly little coaxing and support, that fear melts away and they discover they’re good cooks, much better than they ever could have imagined. Having a cooking buddy is like having a workout partner at the gym. They push us to stretch our limits; go beyond where only solo motivation might take us. Make no mistake; our culinary ‘muscles’ need exercise as well. The more they’re used, the stronger they get, and the more confident we become in the kitchen.

Cooking buddies take the intimidation out of preparing a scrumptious meal from scratch. Somewhere during the process, learning is stimulated by osmosis. The preparation of food, the smells, the laughter, the stories, the visual stimulation, become a seamless dance that choreographs itself on that stage called the kitchen. The energy we create while we cook seeps out and connects us. Too many people think of nourishment as occurring within the foods we prepare. I see the whole process of meal creation with a cooking buddy as being part of nourishment, both for the cooks and the recipients of their efforts. Next up, I’ll introduce you to my first cooking buddy.

Who was your first cooking buddy? Were you nervous? Tell us how you lost your culinary virginity (and with whom) in the comments below

“Friends are the bacon bits in the salad bowl of life.”
–anonymous

“Hey Buddy, Can You Spare Some Thyme?”–Finding a Cooking Pal

July 3rd, 2008

Not long ago, I contacted my neighborhood-cooking buddy Julie, wondering if she was available for a Sunday culinary marathon.

“Sure!” said she.

“Great!” said I.

It was gingerbread weather that day out here beneath Mt. Tam-cool, crisp, nearly cloudless–and I wanted to make my Great-Great Aunt Carol’s gingerbread with homemade applesauce, a perfect complement to my recipe for grass-fed beef stew with roasted Moroccan root vegetables.

Julie thought all this cooking sounded like a perfect blast, which is why I like her so much. The average person would think “You’re choosing to spend your Sunday cooking! Yuk!!” Yet, these are the same people who love to be on the receiving end of a great meal, all the while licking their plates and begging for more. Over the next few blogs, we’ll talk about going tandem and finding a cooking buddy (or, preferable, more than one) to enrich your experience in the kitchen. Even if you’re shy, or fearful, or feel like you’re a cooking spaz who no one would want to spend time with (believe me, everyone feels that way when they start out. I know I did), I’ll urge you to have a little faith and ask someone to join you in the kitchen. The rewards are well worth the effort.

Have a few friends you like to cook with? Tell us about them and how they make cooking fun in the comments below…

“A true friend is someone who thinks that you are a good egg even though he knows that you are slightly cracked.” — Bernard Meltzer, radio talk show host

Graduation Day: Bringing FASS to Fruition

June 30th, 2008

Ok, gang, here’s the FASS finale. So far we’ve added salt and acid to our stock, which already has some natural sweetness from the juice of the vegetables. What’s missing? Well, FASS stands for fat, acid, salt, and sweet, so clearly fat is the only member of the band that hasn’t been heard from yet. Now is the time for its’ solo. Most people make soup using fat-free vegetable stock. This means that the rest of the soup’s ingredients must contain some fat to round out the dish.


Here’s how the fat part of the FASS lesson plays out. For many classes I choose to make Caramelized Onion Soup (see the recipe) with the Magic Mineral Broth as stock. I use this combination because it’s relatively simple, extremely tasty, and helps me demonstrate FASS in action. In a separate saucepan we place a coating of extra virgin olive oil. That’s the fat. Then we add onions and a pinch of salt. Again, the salt can’t be tasted but it breaks down the onion, releasing more of its juice. After the onions are golden brown, we pour a cup of stock over the onions, reduce the contents to seal in the flavor, and then pour in the rest of the stock.

Invariably in class, someone asks the question I’ve been waiting for: “I see how we intentionally added fat, but where did we add sweetness?”
 
I put a spoon in their hand and point them to the pot.
 
Taste. Shock. “I can’t believe onion soup could taste so sweet!” is the inevitable response. I’ve tricked them a bit by keeping them away from the onions while they cooked, but only to make the point that many vegetables, even onions, when allowed to simmer properly, produce a luscious sweet juice.
 


So now we’re almost there. Once again, we go over what’s in the soup from a FASS viewpoint. We have our fat, the olive oil. We’ve added sea salt along the way to our onions. Those onions, in turn, released sweet juice.
 “What’s missing?” I ask. 
Everyone points to the lemon. We need a little acid. Remember, as a stock evolves, so does the taste. FASS is your culinary gyroscope to keep it the flavors in balance, meaning you’re always allowed
to add one of the four elements as needed. In this case, a little of the lemon’s acids will bring just the right amount of brightness to complete the dish.

Shpritz.


Taste.

Involuntary moans. Incomplete sentences. “Oh! Wow!”


Ladies and gentlemen, we have reached Yum!
 And that’s what FASS is all about; a great tool to have at your disposal when you decide it’s time to take off on your own culinary wanderings, a global positioning satellite for your taste buds. Without FASS, a given meal may only have seventy-five percent of its potential taste. Tolerable? Yes. Desirable? Nooooo. Why settle for mediocrity when you can achieve delicious! Optimizing a dish’s taste with FASS is what true nourishment is all about. It turns a plate of ordinary food into a nutritious gift of love and health. And isn’t that the reason we’re in the kitchen in the first place?

Did you give FASS a shot? Whaddya think? Share your thoughts in the comments section…

“If G-d had intended us to follow recipes, He wouldn’t have given us grandmothers.”
–Linda Henley

A little heat, a lot of taste (FASS Pt 7)

June 26th, 2008

Last time out, we began working with a pot of magic mineral broth, using FASS to help bring the stock to perfection. In a class I was teaching, we’d just added a dash of salt—remember, I always have my students taste constantly during the cooking process, so they can understand both the ingredients they’re adding and the role heat plays in catalyzing the stock—and everyone agreed the small amount of salt—which breaks down the fiber in food and releases flavor—improved the stock. But it wasn’t quite perfect. Not yet. So I again asked my students. “Does it need something else?”
 


Usually we’ll add a pinch or two more of salt and taste the broth again to determine how much the salt can accomplish without creating a salty taste. Everyone agrees the stock tastes great, but now the game’s afoot. Tuned into their taste buds, my students sense something is still missing. They just don’t know what that something is.


I do. I reach for a lemon. Remember how I said the acids from a little lemon can make flavor notes ring?


“How about this?” I ask, holding up the lemon. More surprised looks. People are thinking of how sour a lemon tastes instead of focusing on its ability to enhance existing flavors. They don’t want a sour taste in their stock–and I can’t blame them–but they’re willing to go along with me. Shpritz. Taste. Lips smack. Delighted gasps escape caressed throats.


“Wow…that’s it!” 
“That is soooo great!”
 


And it is great, as a base. Delicious stock is the foundation for great soup. Still, although this stock is tasty and nutritious, it doesn’t have the satiating quality of a meal. Why? Again, remember what FASS stands for. The stock has acid, salt, and some sweet from the juice of the vegetables. What’s missing?
That’s right: Fat. In the finale of FASS next Thursday, you’ll see what happens when we add fat to the stock (trust me, it’s a good thing).

What fats do you like to use? Do you ever wonder what different fats offer in nutrition and taste? Ask your questions in the comments section below.

“It’s difficult to think anything but pleasant thoughts while eating a homegrown tomato.”
–Lewis Grizzard, humorist

FASS at Work: Soup’s Up

June 23rd, 2008

I love using my magic mineral broth to show people how FASS works (check out the recipe on my web site). I fill the pot with a hodgepodge of vegetables and water, set it to simmering, and have people taste the stock every ten to fifteen minutes or so. After their third or fourth taste, I see heads start bobbing up and down. That once tasteless water is now beginning to change. Flavors are being released as well as smells, all of which combine to create an aromatic brew. The color of the stock begins to deepen, a visual sign of catalytic action. Old misperceptions break down under the weight of this sensory evidence; new possibilities emerge. That finished pot of stock no longer looks so impossible to create. I catch people staring at it with a newfound confidence.
 


Once I see that spark, I know my students are ripe for a little FASS learning. I ask a few questions about the pot of stock we’ve just made. The dialogue usually goes something like this:


Me: “How does it taste?”

Them: “Okay. Pretty good.

Me: “Okay? Do you want to eat just okay food? Let’s make it great. What do you think it needs?”


Them: “Hmmm…it needs a little salt.”


This is a universal response. Everyone reaches for salt first when something doesn’t taste quite right. I fill up just a quarter teaspoon with sea salt. My students glance at the teaspoon, then at the twelve-quart stockpot. They immediately look
 skeptical. I know what they’re thinking: That’s not enough salt to make it taste salty.
 That’s true, but it is enough salt to alter the taste. The salt goes in and they taste the stock again. Now their heads begin nodding in unison.


“Better?” I ask.


“Better!” they agree. The salt is doing its job, releasing the stock’s flavor. Many times people want to stop right there, but I want to get them to yum! In my next blog, I’ll show you how we get that stock across the finish line.

Are you a constant taster? Or do you wait until the end of the dish to make adjustments? Share with us your tips in the comments section below.

“As a child my family’s menu consisted of two choices: Take it or leave it.”
–Buddy Hackett, Comedian

Utilizing FASS in the kitchen

June 19th, 2008

Right about now you probably feel like a neophyte walking through Home Depot who has suddenly been handed a belt sander and been told ‘go to it.’ Over the past few weeks, we’ve been talking about my kitchen tool called FASS, sure fire way of blending using fat, acid, salt and sweet to balance any dish and bring out all its flavor. Now we’ll make the jump from having a tool to using it correctly.

Honing your buds comes down to a lot of trial and error in the kitchen. I know you don’t believe it now, but eventually you’ll get so good at FASS (it stands for balancing Fat, Acid, Salty & Sweet) that you’ll throw a dish’s taste off on purpose just to see if you can rebalance it. You’ll lusciously succeed…and once your friends find this out, they’ll call you every time they mess up a recipe.
 


When I teach people how to use FASS, I often use a soup built from scratch. Why? Because we’re taking a flavorless element–water–and turning it into a bowl of yum. Water’s complete lack of any taste makes it much easier for those new to FASS to isolate the flavor of every ingredient added to the pot. The key is using heat to release flavors, and having people taste constantly to see how those flavors slowly alchemize into the stock.
In my next blog, we’ll see how FASS works in one of my favorite broths.

Are you a soup fan? Share with us what you like about making soups in the comments below

“Soup is cuisine’s kindest course. It breathes reassurance; it steams consolation; after a weary day it promotes sociability, as the five o’clock cup of tea or the cocktail hour.”
–Louis P. De Gouy, The Soup Book (1949)

Meeting The Players: How Salt and Sweet Affect Taste (FASS, Pt 4.)

June 16th, 2008

So far we’ve covered how fats and acids affect taste; today we’ll cover salt and sweet. 
I love the way my friend Gary Bang summarizes a common misconception surrounding salt. “You put salt on your eggs and they taste salty and that’s what salt is for.”

No, no, no, no, no! When used in cooking, real salt—that is, sea salt—doesn’t impart its own taste. Instead, it unlocks the flavor of every food it comes in contact with. As with acids, sea salt crystals act like tiny scrubbing bubbles that release flavors. There is no substitute for sea salt. Basic table salt won’t do. It’s been bleached of all its elements (save added iodine) and has a slightly bitter taste. Sea salt is healthier, with more than eighty minerals and elements from the sea.

Two last notes on salt for the scientifically inclined: Recent studies suggest that sodium does not cause hypertension, though it may slightly increase blood pressure. My sense is that informed physicians are leaning towards a “moderation is ok” approach. Other research suggests sea salt may help people with compromised or weakened taste buds, the theory being that sodium stimulates and improves the conductivity of electrical current in nerve cells. Talk about putting a charge in your buds!


As for sweet, to me it’s the siren song of food. Tease these buds, which stand front and center on your tongue, and the brain screams “more, more, more!!!” That’s not to say you should load up on the sweet, because that’s not the goal. Balance is. That’s why I use only Grade B organic maple syrup. It’s incredibly flavorful, far healthier than refined sugar, and does a marvelous job cutting the acidity and bitterness quotient in any dish. Honey, brown rice syrup, and agave nectar all also work in a pinch.

Now that you’ve met the players, in Thursday’s blog I’ll show you how to make FASS your best friend in the kitchen.

Questions? Comments? Criticisms? Coffee? Tea? Share ‘em in the comments below.

“Food for all is a necessity. Food should not be a merchandise, to be bought and sold as jewels are bought and sold by those who have the money to buy. Food is a human necessity, like water and air, it should be available.”
–Pearl Buck (1892-1973) American Nobel Prize winning author

The Facts of FASS (pt 3)

June 12th, 2008

In my last blog we covered the basics of my favorite taste-balancing tool called FASS: It’s a way of blending healthy fats, acids, salts, and sweets correctly to make every dish sing. To put FASS to work for you, never forget the #1 rule: You must give yourself permission to become a tasting fool. At every step, every time you add an ingredient or cook it to release its flavor you must taste, taste, taste. It’s the only proper way to correct a dish mid-course. Waiting until the end to taste and make changes is like closing the barn door after the horse has bolted. Besides, we culinary alchemists love witnessing our ingredients being transformed by the heat into heady creations.


Today we’ll meet two members of the 
FASS ensemble and discuss how they orchestrate both taste and your taste buds. First we’ll look at fats. Fats take food on a magic carpet ride across your palate. That’s important because your tongue contains different islands of taste buds. Sweet taste buds gather at the tip of the tongue, while bitter buds congregate toward the back of the throat. The coating action of fat allows flavors to spread around the tongue and mouth so they can be fully tasted. Fat also adds heft to a dish and its presence leaves us feeling satiated. That’s why a little fat goes a long way. Cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil is always my fat of choice because of its nice, clean taste.
 


Acids are like free prep help in the kitchen. They break down tissues and fibers in vegetables and meats, allowing those savory juices to run wild. Acids—especially citric acids, which are the acids I’m referring to in FASS—are sour. They act as an excellent counterbalance to sweet flavors in a dish. Lemons or limes are my acids of choice, but many vinegars, including brown rice, red wine, and balsamic, also work well. Check back for my next blog on Monday, when I cover the rest of the band: Salt and Sweet.

Have any questions or thoughts about what we’ve covered here? Add them in the comments section below.

“Some people are fat…
Some people are lean…
But I want you to show me the person who doesn’t like butterbeans! Yaaaaaay!!!”
–From the B-52’s Song ‘Butterbean’ (1983)


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